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I lived in the Kalinga village of Buscalan for two weeks with the last living tattoo artist (mambabatok) 91 year-old Whang Od who learned the art from her father Oggay when she was just a young girl. She allowed me to stay with her with only one stipulation: that I learn as much about her people and culture through her and her incredible work.

Of course, the Kalinga are no longer headhunters and even though this practice ended long ago, there still remains a warrior tradition in Kalinga. Traditionally men had to earn the right to be tattooed, and to be considered a man in Kalinga society an individual had to learn how to farm, hunt, and protect his family in times of warfare. He also had to learn how to interpret omens from the natural and spiritual world that could affect his personal destiny. In this way, a man gained the respect of his peers, kin, and the spirits of his ancestors. So, I ultimately had to learn all of these aspects of Kalinga life before I was allowed to be given a beautiful "warrior" tattoo (batok) by Whang Od.

It was certainly a humbling, physically demanding, and educational experience, and one that I will never forget. After all, my tattoo will always be a permanent reminder of my time and experiences with the Kalinga who so graciously opened their homes and hearts to me so that I could learn how tattooing was so deeply tied to their sense of cultural identity and traditions. I am proud to say that I have many friends in Kalinga now whom I saw when I returned for another visit last year.